A Very Japanese Holiday Season

Happy New Year!  I’ve just spent my first Christmas and New Year in Japan.  In fact, it is my first Christmas and New Year outside of Australia.  I was wondering what to expect.  Now that it’s over and we’re rocketing into 2012, I can tell you all about it.

Christmas 

I think we’re all familiar with the standard Western Christmas.  Putting aside differences in climate between the Hemispheres, Christmas is a public holiday day spent with your family exchanging presents and eating turkey, pudding etc.  You know the drill.  Christmas in Japan is a decidedly different affair.  I think the following six points illustrate this.

First and foremost, Christmas is not a public holiday in Japan.  Yes, you read correctly.  If Christmas doesn’t fall on a Sunday or Saturday, you’ll be spending the day at work.  That said, 23 December is a public holiday for the Emperor’s Birthday (which is like Christmas for the few nationalistic loonies in Japan!) so you can’t feel that deprived of holidays.

Secondly, in Japan you are not expected to spend Christmas Day with your family.  If anything, Christmas is a “date night” for doting young couples.  It’s almost like a second Valentine’s Day.

Thirdly, buying a present for your family and friends is not expected.  Retailers must hate it!  However, if you’re a devoted young man on “date night”, your fair lady may be expecting a gift!

Fourthly, Japan is not a Christian country.  I don’t think that distinguishes Japan greatly from Australia since the average Australian does not seem like a particularly devote Christian (or a Christian at all) despite what they may write in the census.  I think Christmas is the only day that many Australians attend church as if it makes up for the complete year of Sundays they have otherwise missed.  In Japan, you can skip church along with the rest of the population.  And rest assured, there will be no nativity play at your local elementary school.

Fifthly, there is little in the way of Christmas decorations, carols and other fa, la, la, la, la, ho, ho, ho, ho, deck the halls stuff in Japan.  You’ll see the odd Christmas tree in a department store but not much more.  However, the one thing Tokyo does have is “illumination,” which are outdoor lighting displays.  These are many of these around Tokyo but they are not in Christmas colours and would be just as appropriate at any other time of year.  Some are quite impressive, such as the one at Tokyo Midtown.

Tokyo Illumination:  All lit up like a Christmas Tree?  No, just all lit up.

Finally, no-one seems to care that much for the “Christmas spirit,” which is so heavily promoted in Australia.  In Japan, you are not asked to “dig deep at Christmas time” to help various charities nor are you under any obligation to be nicer to anyone than you are for the other 364 days of the year.  That said, everyone is already pretty nice here, so there’s really no need to ramp it up just for Christmas.

New Year

I think we’re all equally familiar with the traditional Western New Year:  stay out all night drinking too many over-priced drinks then spend the next day hungover, un-tagging yourself in embarrassing Facebook photos thinking “there must be better ways to spend the first day of the year.”  In Japan, this is not the custom, except perhaps with some of the younger generation who have adopted such revelry.

Traditionally, Japanese New Year’s Eve is a quiet time spent with family.  People may visit a Shinto Shrine at midnight to say a prayer for the coming year.  Before midnight, they may eat toshikoshi soba at home with their family.  This is a special type of noodle eaten just before midnight on New Year’s Eve.  

 

On New Year’s Day, itself, they will eat Osechi which is the traditional food of New Year’s Day.  Osechi actually comprises several different types of food all of which are very organic and healthy.  It is served in a three-layered box where each level looks somewhat like a bento box.  Like many Japanese foods, Osechi is meticulously arranged and presented.  Each item of food symbolizes a particular virtue that you are hoping for in the New Year.  Unfortunately, I don’t know anything more about the meaning or history of Osechi, but I can tell you that it’s very nice and one of the best Japanese dishes I’ve had.

Zōjō-ji post balloon release.

So did I partake in the traditional Japanese New Year?  To an extent, yes.  Although I didn’t eat any toshikoshi soba, I visited Zōjō-ji at midnight which is the most popular shrine in Tokyo for seeing in the New Year (very crowded!).  At midnight, people release helium balloons carrying a piece of paper containing a wish for the New Year.  Hundreds were released at Zōjō-ji.  On New Year’s Day, I ate some wonderful Osechi prepared by the family of one of my Japanese friends.  All in all, much better than spending the day with a hangover!

In closing, wherever you may be, thank you for visiting this blog in 2011 and I hope that you continue to drop by in 2012.  Happy New Year and all the best for 2012!

Our Man in Japan.

Should native English-speakers learn a second language?

Since this is Christmas Eve, you may have been expecting a post about festive season activities.  Well, this isn’t that.  Don’t worry.  I will make a post reviewing Christmas and New Year when those events have finished.   Today’s post is about something entirely different.

For the last nine months, I have been studying Japanese in my spare time.  I have been quite diligent and learnt a lot, although I still only know about 0.1% of what I need to know!  All this time I have struggled with the question of whether I should be bothering to learn Japanese at all.  I definitely think that it is worth learning the standard phrases so that you are able to survive, but what about going beyond that?  What about studying a second language for years on end so that you become highly proficient?  Well, that is the subject or today’s post.

The only reason for becoming highly proficient in a second language

After much thinking I have concluded that the only time anyone should learn a second language to a highly proficient level is if they need to in order to regularly communicate.  None of the other reasons advanced for learning a second language, in my opinion, are valid.  

The three reasons I have heard for learning a second language (other than communication) are (i) it helps you understand another culture, (ii) it builds memorisation skills and (iii) it helps you better understand your native language.  As for the (i), I think the most effective way to understand another culture is to study that culture.  I agree that language is an important part of culture but I think you will get a sufficient understanding of how a country’s language is different from your own by simply reading about the fundamentals of the language.  There is no need to undertake the laborious task of memorising every word you know in your native language in a second language.

As for (ii), I agree that memorising many words in a different language is likely to build your memorisation skills but surely it would be better to build such skills by memorising something that you are likely to use on a regular basis?  If you are not going to regularly use a second language on a regular basis, there is little point in memorising so much information regarding it.  Further, I question whether memorising large volumes of material is a good in itself.  The ability to analyse and create is far more valuable than the ability to slavishly “wrote learn” material.  Every advance has been made through the creation of a new method or being able to discern something which was not immediately apparent.  Memorisation is at odds with this.  Perhaps focusing on memorisation even damages such skills.

As for (iii), I think it is obvious that the best way to understand and improve your native language is to study it.  Studying a second language (which may have very little in common with your native language) is a very circuitous way to go about improving your native language.

Some might say that learning a second language opens up career, study and travel opportunities.  I agree, but this is an example of learning a second language for the purpose of communication, which I have already acknowledged is the only valid reason for learning a second language.  

Should native English speakers become highly proficient in a second language?

I was wondering how many English speakers, both native and non-native, there are in the World.  Unfortunately, no-one really knows.  The answer to this question largely depends on how proficient someone must be at English to be considered an English speaker.  Some people estimate that there are as many as 2 billion English speakers in the World, which means English has more speakers than any other language.  If you accept the figure of 2 billion, less than 20% of English speakers are in fact native speakers, which makes the native English speaker quite a rare creature.  Even if you only count native English speakers, English is the most widely spoken language in geographic terms and more countries have English as their official language than any other language.  The result of all these facts is something most of us already know:  if you already speak English is it very unlikely that you need to learn another language to regularly communicate.   

I acknowledge that some native English speakers may need to learn a second language due to their particular circumstances.  These circumstances are largely unique to each individual but nationality may have some influence.  In this regard, I was wondering what is the worst country on Earth for learning a second language.  Firstly, it has to be a country that has English as its official language.  Secondly, it has to be a country which is geographically isolated from speakers of another language.  This second factor rules out the UK (close to Continental Europe), Canada (all those Quebecoise!), the USA (Spanish is spoken by so many people in the South West) and South Africa (Afrikan).  I think the winner would have to be Australia or New Zealand.

So, for the reasons above, I do not think most native English speakers should become highly proficient in a second language.  There is simply no reason to be.

If not highly proficient, how about utterly incompetent?

You have probably noticed that I have been saying that native English speakers should not become “highly proficient” in a second language.  I still think that native English speakers should learn a small part of a second language, in certain circumstances, for reasons other than communication.  I think there are two such circumstances.

Firstly, I think school students should be made to learn a second language for at least two years.  This is because school should introduce children to as many areas of study as possible so that they can determine what interests them.  For this reason, drama, sport, music, geography and various other subjects are all taught in schools.

Secondly, I think that foreign tourists should make an effort to learn some basic phrases when on holiday as a show of respect to the inhabitants of the country they are visiting.  In most cases, reciting something you have learnt from the back pages of a guide book is not going to do much to breakdown the language barrier but it is more polite than assuming everyone on Earth speaks your language.

So what should native English speakers do?

If you are not a native English speaker who needs to learn a second language for the purposes of regular communication, what should you do?  I think the answer is obvious: make sure that your English is as good as possible!  I think that every native English speaker is capable of improving their spoken and written English.  This is an ongoing challenge.  Everyone could be a better public speaker, everyone could be more widely read and everyone could have a larger vocabulary.  

Finally, I hope this post is not interpreted as a self-important native English speaker ranting about how every other language on Earth is rubbish.  Not true.  I find Japanese fascinating.  While I am in Japan, I will make an effort to learn as much as I can in my free time.  However, we must acknowledge that learning a second language is a time-consuming activity which is not worth pursuing unless there is a reason to do so.  This is the case regardless of whether your native language is English or not.

Thank you for reading and take care

Our Man in Japan

The Volcanic South

Japan is well known for earthquakes but not so much for volcanoes.  The first country that comes to my mind when I think of volcanic activity is Iceland, particularly after one of its unpronounceable volcanoes stopped most European air transport in 2010.  However, there certainly are active volcanoes in Japan.  You just have to venture to the most southern of Japan’s main islands, Kyushu, to see them.

Kyushu is home to the three most famous active volcanoes in Japan:  Sakurajima, Shinmoedake and Aso-san.  The Japanese word for volcano is kazan (火山) which literally means “fire mountain.”

Sakurajima

Sakurajima (literally “cherry island”) is a huge volcano only a few kilometres away from the major city of Kagoshima.  Sakurajima is permanently active, erupting on a daily basis.  It has been this way for decades and for that reason is of great interest to scientists.

Depending on the wind direction, ash from Sakurajima will rain down on Kagoshima.  There is ash everywhere in the city: on cars, footpaths etc.  The people of Kagoshima are quite comfortable with all of this.  Apparently they check the wind direction before hanging their clothes outside to dry and will walk around with umbrellas if an ash shower is forecast.

Sakurajima is clearly visible from Kagoshima (because it’s so huge!) and very pretty at sunrise and sunset.  When I was taking some photos of it at sunrise, it erupted throwing a large cloud of ash into the air.  Here is a sequence of photos I took as well as a photo of Sakurajima as seen from Kagoshima on a clear day.

 Shinmoedake

Shinmoedake (literally “new burning peak”) is about two-hours drive north of Kagoshima.  Shinmoedake made international headlines when it violently erupted on 26 January 2011 causing evacuations from the local area.  At one stage, a lightning storm passed through the ash cloud creating some spectacular images

When I visited Kyushu, it had fallen silent.  Here are some news photo from the eruption in January 2011.

 Aso-san

Aso-san is about three-to-four-hours drive from Kagoshima.  It is a popular tourist destination due to the beauty and tranquillity of the surrounding landscape.  Most visitors walk to the edge of the crater to look down at the bubbling lake within.  Aso-san doesn’t emit ash and smoke like most volcanoes but rather belches out steam and sulphur dioxide.  When a significant emission of sulphur dioxide occurs, a warning is sounded and everyone has to leave the area.  That occurred when I visited.  The gas definitely makes you cough!

As it was very cloudy on the day I visited Aso-san, I couldn’t take any decent photos of the crater.  Here is a promotional photo of the crater on a clearer day.

 The sleeping giant

The most famous volcano in Japan isn’t in Kyushu.  In fact, it’s only 100km from Tokyo:  Mt Fuji.  Mt Fuji hasn’t erupted since 1707 and is considered dormant.  If it was planning an eruption, now would be a good time since (i) nobody is on the mountain due to the Winter weather and (ii) the views of Mt Fuji from Tokyo are best in Winter.  Last time it erupted, some ash rained down on Tokyo, but that’s just a normal day if you live in Kagoshima!  I could handle that.  Besides, I would get a great view of the eruption from my balcony!

Thank you for reading and take care.

Our Man in Japan.

Japanese Popular Music

I am quite a music fan.  Although perhaps not as devoted as I previously was, I still read music magazines, buy actual CDs (how antiquated?), attend concerts and rank musicians amongst my heroes.  So when I arrived in Japan, I was keen to sample the local music.  Here's a summary of what I've learnt.

Japan is the second largest popular music market in the world after the USA.  It is largely dominated by Japanese artists even though every major Western artist will tour here.  So what are Japanese artists like?  Well, there are three really popular genres of popular music in Japan: J-Rock, idol groups and J-Pop.  Sure, there are some Japanese metal bands and rappers but they seem to be in the minority.

J-Rock

Above: Rad Wimps

To be a J-Rock band, you must have a ridiculous name.  It appears to be compulsory.  The most popular J-Rock band is called Mr Children.  Other successful groups are Rad Wimps and Bump of Chicken.  Given that the most successful Western band of all time was called The Beatles, I probably shouldn't criticize these name choices but it's hard not.  If you move outside J-Rock, the band names get even worse.  For example, there's a Japanese boy band called Sexy Zone.  You can just imagine the record executive meeting prior to their christening: "We need a name.  Something like Boy Zone but sexy.  I know!"

How do J-Rock bands sound?  Well, I can't understand the lyrics but the music sounds very samey.  It's quite middle-of-the-road pop-rock.  

Idol Groups

Above:  AKB 48

Although Slayer would like us to think they're Satan's elect on Earth, I think it's more likely to be a group of irritatingly cute Japanese school girls called AKB 48.  AKB 48 is Japan's most popular idol group.  Their name is an abbreviation for Akihabara 48.  The Akihabara part makes sense: Akihabara is a region of Tokyo famous for maid cafes (as mentioned in my previous post on maid cafes) and AKB 48 performs there daily.  But the 48 part doesn't make any sense: there's over 60 members in this idol group, as if 48 wasn't enough! 

The band members are selected by fans through various competitions. This gives the group its "idol" component.  Some may consider AKB 48 adorably cute but I think they're crushingly banal.  Unfortunately, they're unavoidable in Japan.  Still, they're better than Justin Bieber, Ke$ha and P!nk who all belong in Guantanamo Bay Detention Centre.

If you wish to pick further fruit from the Tree of Knowledge Good and Evil, follow this link at your peril:

http://www.akb48.co.jp/english/members/index.html

J-Pop

  

J-Pop is largely the domain of the solo singer.  The J-Pop singer that I'm best acquainted with is Kimura Kaela.  She's half Japanese/half English and is a sometimes model and TV-presenter as well as a singer.  I saw her play a couple of months ago and was impressed not only by the size of the crowd but the quality of the show.  Still, her music is a little cutesy and trite for my liking.  That said, I love her song "Ring a Ding Dong."  Here's the video clip.  Please, please, please watch it! You won’t regret it.  If this doesn't warm your heart, you don't have one!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=tcS6Me5eu50

Above: Kimura Kaela

In case, you are wondering what the lyrics mean, here's a rough translation.

In my hour of need, I was cast into the desperate streets of addiction,

To scavenge like a leper as my hungry veins howled for a fix.

Oh! Death knell! Won't you toll for me?

Please toll: Ring a ding dong. Ring a ding ding dong.

What is blacker than black? My soul.

I am an island swallowed by the bottomless abyss of despair.

I am done with words.

May the bell toll: Ring a ding dong. Ring a ding ding dong.

Hmm … bleaker than the video suggests.

Thank you for reading and take care.

Our Man in Japan.

Melbourne Cup v Yabusame

If you are from Melbourne, you will know that the start of November means horse racing, gambling, drinking and most important of all ... undeserved, but welcome, public holidays. For those of you not from Melbourne, let me quickly explain. There is a big horse racing carnival in Melbourne at the start of November. The pinnacle of this carnival is the Melbourne Cup horse race. Strangely, all of Melbourne is granted a public holiday in honour of the Melbourne Cup. Some say it's strange to have a whole day off work for a race that lasts approximately 3 minutes, but I'm not going to question it.

When I came to Japan, I thought it would be the end of gratuitous public holidays at the start of November. Thankfully, I was mistaken. In Japan, the 3^rd of November is a public holiday called Culture Day, the focus of which is unsurprisingly Japanese culture.

Out of deference to the Melbourne Cup I decided to mark Culture Day by observing a Japanese equestrian activity. Originally, I was tempted to eat horse sashimi (Basashi) but then decided it would be best to see some horses in the flesh ... living flesh, that is. So I decided to watch some Yabusame.

Yabusame is Japanese horseback archery. It is a traditional activity which dates back hundreds of years. Basically, a mounted archer gallops along while firing arrows at two stationary targets. As you can imagine, this is not easy! The rider is at a full gallop, is not holding onto the horse with his/her hands in any way, must gather an arrow from the holder on his/her back, draw their bow, take aim and fire. To make matters worse, the rider is wearing a pretty elaborate and bulky outfit. Here are some photos.

So how does Yabusame compare to the Melbourne Cup? Well, it's a matter of horses for courses (ha!) In some ways they are alike: both are crowded with on-lookers, both occur on a holiday and both are probably dangerous. As much as I love Melbourne, the use of bows and arrows in Yabusame definitely adds a level of excitement which is not present in the Melbourne Cup. Perhaps a hybrid could be created, the Melbourne Yabusame Cup. It could be the Melbourne Cup but with jockeys armed with bows and arrows and allowed to shoot at each other. Yes, I think that would work well.

Thank you for reading and take care.

Our Man in Japan

Baseball

It has been a long wait for the start of the baseball season. Our first match was supposed to be about three months ago, but unfortunately the baseball fields which we were scheduled to play on were ruined by a flood. Once that was cleared up, it strangely rained every Saturday. However, that's all in the past now, as we finally had our first game on Saturday, 8 October. It was a beautiful day, which was made even more beautiful by the fact we won 5-2.

Baseball is very popular in Japan. In fact, it's the national sport. The biggest team in Tokyo and probably the biggest in the country is the Yomiuri Giants. I nominally support the Hiroshima Carp, but I've only been to one of their matches. That match was in Hiroshima and the Carp were completely smashed by the Giants!

What is baseball like to play? Well, I've posted some photos here so you can see for yourself. But let me just say one thing: it's not at all like cricket!

Thank you for reading and take care.

Our Man in Japan