Iconic Mt Fuji

The cherry blossoms arrive at Lake Kawaguchi near Mt. Fuji.

The cherry blossoms are now starting to bloom, which means winter is definitely over and spring has begun.  My most lasting memory of the past winter would be the views of Mt Fuji from Tokyo.  The Tokyo winter often serves up brilliantly clear (but cold!) days which allow for wonderful vistas of a snow-capped Mt Fuji.  Seeing Mt Fuji day-in-day-out from my apartment and the office led me to consider its iconic status.  And I think “iconic” is certainly the correct word.   A snow-capped Mt Fuji would be without doubt one of the most well-known images of Japan (particularly if there are a few cherry blossoms “photo shopped” in!)  Every tourism brochure has to feature it at least once.  

So why is Mt Fuji so iconic?  Well, I thought I would consider that question in today’s post.  I think there are several reasons.  

First and foremost, Mt Fuji is physically unique.  There are very few stand-alone mountains which can match its 3,776 metres and none which have its perfectly conical shape.  There are many mountains which are higher than Mt Fuji, but almost all of these mountains are mere peaks amongst a larger mountain range.  Very few mountains rise 3,776 metres out of absolutely nowhere like Mt Fuji.  

The Sky Tree: impressive but still doesn't quite match Mt Fuji.

Secondly, Mt Fuji is a naturally occurring wonder.  It is like a gift from nature that was given to set Japan apart from other countries.  I think that this gives Mt Fuji more gravitas than something built to attract tourists or act as a landmark, and there are plenty of examples of that!  Just focusing on Tokyo, there is the Tokyo Tower (it’s a red and white Eiffel Tower!), the miniature Statue of Liberty on Odaiba Island and the most recent of all, the Sky Tree.  The Sky Tree is a 634 metre tower which will open in May.  I have been watching it being built for the last year from my office window.  It’s certainly a very impressive building, but it can’t match Mt Fuji’s size nor can it match Mt Fuji’s status as a natural wonder of Japan.

 

Mt Fuji in summer:  no snow to be seen.

Thirdly, Mt Fuji changes significantly with the seasons just like Japan.  The seasons are all quite distinct here.  In summer, Tokyo is hot and humid like somewhere in the tropics, autumn brings koyo (autumn leaves), in winter it snows and spring is known for sakura (cherry blossom).  Mt Fuji also changes significantly with the seasons, from being snow-capped in winter to completely bare in summer.  In this way, it is a visible sign of the disparity between seasons.

Fourthly, Mt Fuji is a constant in an otherwise changing world.  Like any modern country, there has been significant development in Japan over the last few centuries.  Throughout that time, Mt Fuji has looked on unchanged.  When you see Mt Fuji floating above the cityscape of Tokyo, it is obvious that it has been doing this since before Tokyo even existed.  It’s seen the destruction of the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, the bombing raids of 1945, the development of modern Shibuya and Shinjuku, and much more.  I think that this has a powerful psychological effect on people.  So many images of Mt Fuji present it as the ever-constant backdrop to a dynamic world.  For example, there are many images of Shinkansen’s shooting along with Mt Fuji in the background and images of Mt Fuji looking out over a bustling Tokyo.  The most famous image of Mt Fuji and probably the most famous piece of Japanese art, Hokusai’s The Great Wave Off Kanagawa, uses the same concept by showing Mt Fuji peacefully looking on as fisherman struggle in the foreground to avoid being engulfed by a huge wave.  No matter what happens in Tokyo, Mt Fuji will continue to tranquilly gaze on as it has done for centuries.  

Mt Fuji and a Shinkansen.

The Great Wave Off Kanagawa.

Fifthly, Mt Fuji possesses tranquil beauty like much of traditional Japanese culture.  As far as I can tell (and I am certainly not an expert!), a lot of traditional Japanese culture is based around peacefulness and beauty.  For example, think of Japanese gardens, ikebana (traditional flower arranging), bonsai, and hanami (a picnic for viewing cherry blossoms).  The words raucous and ugly do not really seem appropriate!  Mt Fuji is as tranquil and beautiful as all of these things whether you are viewing it from a few kilometres away or a skyscraper in central Tokyo.  

Mt Fuji peacefully looks out over the modern world of Shinjuku.

Finally, Mt Fuji could be seen as a visible reminder of the threat of natural disaster to Japan.  Despite its tranquil appearance, Mt Fuji is a dormant volcano.  It last erupted in 1707 scattering ash over what was then the beginnings of Tokyo.  If and when it will erupt again, is unknown. 

So there you have it.  These are all of the reasons I can think of for why Mt Fuji is an icon of Japan.  There are probably lots of other reasons, which I haven’t thought of.  If you regard Mt Fuji as iconic for other reasons, please feel free to let me know.  I would be interested to hear from you.

Thank you for reading and take care.

Our Man in Japan.

White Day in Japan

14 March is a special day in Japan called White Day.  It is no coincidence that it is precisely one month after Valentine's Day.  As mentioned in my post about Valentine's Day (http://ourmaninjapan101.blogspot.com/2012/02/japanese-valentines-day.html), 14 February is marked by girls/women giving boys/men chocolates as a gesture of goodwill or gratitude.  On White Day, the ledger is squared as every boy/man who received a chocolate on Valentine's Day must return the favour by giving a chocolate or similar small gift to every woman/girl who have him a chocolate a month earlier. 

I am not entirely sure why White Day is called what it is.  Someone told me that it's because you are supposed to give something white, but apparently that's not mandatory.

So what did I do for White Day?  Well, in case you've forgotten, I received 13 chocolates on Valentine's Day. (Yes, 13. I don't like to boast but I can find it within myself just this once!)  Therefore, I had to give 13 gifts on White Day.  

If you take White Day particularly seriously, you might make the chocolates  you give, but I think very few people actually do that.  Unfortunately, I don't have an adequate kitchen to cook anything.  Still, I wanted to make an effort for White Day since 14 March 2012 may well be my only White Day. After some careful thinking, I decided to make some miniature packages, each containing some chocolates, an origami lily, an origami butterfly and some white decorating paper. It didn't involve cooking but it still involved making something myself.  

Making origami was perhaps a risky move.  I work in an office with several hundred Japanese people.  At least a few of them are bound to be very good at making origami, and will probably look at what I've done and think, "Nice try, dude, but I did better when I was in elementary school!"

I created 15 packages:  13 for the 13 people who gave me chocolates on Valentine's Day and two bonus packages.  Below are some pictures of me making them.  It took a while and making the butterflies was fiddly, but I think everything turned out OK.

Thank you for reading and take care.

Our Man in Japan.

Japanese Horror Films

I’ve never been a big fan of horror films.  May be that’s because I classify all the good horror movies as “psychological dramas,” so all that’s left in the horror category are revolting slasher movies and B-grade films whose paltry attempts at frightening you just seem laughable.  

Putting my personal classification system aside, horror movies are popular in Japan.  The horror movie section at my local DVD rental store is certainly well-stocked with both Japanese and Western titles, and quite a few people I know consider horror to be their favourite genre.

Toshio from Ju-On.  If you see the film, you'll get to know this little kid well.

Worldwide, the two most famous Japanese horror movies would be Ju-On and Ringu.  This is because they were both remade into Hollywood hits.  Ju-On was remade as The Grudge, even though ju-on translates more accurately as “the curse” (or so I’m told), while Ringu was simply remade as The Ring.   I’ve seen both of the original Japanese versions.  Ju-On was quite spooky while Ringu was a little too implausible to have any  effect on me.  (What? An implausible horror film?  That’s a first.) 

After seeing these two famous Japanese horror films, I decided I should expose one of my Japanese friends to two of the scariest Western horror films, just to see how they react.  I chose The Exorcist  and a more recent film which I think is far more unnerving, The Exorcism of Emily Rose.  So what was their reaction?  Well, they weren’t scared by these films at all.  I wondered why this might be.  I now think I know why:  the Japanese aren’t raised in a culture that conditions them to be frightened by such films.

The Exorcist. Not scary.

Japan is largely an atheist country.  The most prevalent religion is Shinto, but that’s not a religion in the sense that Christians understand the concept.  Therefore, the Japanese have not grown up being told that there are demons, hell, a god judging your deeds, a devil who’s keen to claim you as his own, etc.  Being exposed to this sort of dogma, as most Western children are to varying degrees, is essential to finding films such as The Exorcist scary.  I think the only reason why we find The Exorcist scary is because it triggers a little voice in the back of our head, which was implanted there when we were a child, to say, “Perhaps this sort of thing actually happens.  Perhaps it could happen to you!”  If we never had that little voice implanted to begin with, we see films such as The Exorcist as complete nonsense, as we rightfully should.

Ju-On, however, is a different matter.  According to what I have read about Shinto, which admittedly isn't much, Shinto teaches that if a person dies a horrible death their spirit may live on bearing a grudge.  This is precisely the premise of the film Ju-On and perhaps why it is considered scary in Japan.  

Thank you for reading and take care.

Our Man in Japan

Japanese Valentine’s Day

Sunset from the top of the Mori Tower.

I’ve always been rather cynical about Valentine’s Day.  In Australia, I saw 14 February as a phoney holiday created by retailers to fill the void between Christmas seasons.  (Mother’s Day and Father’s Day are much the same, if you ask me.)  If I traced the history of Valentine’s Day back, I’m sure I would discover that it was created by a small group of jewellers, florists and chocolatiers who were anxious one year to keep the liquidator from the door … and if I’m wrong, I’ll amend the Wikipedia article to say it was that way!

Valentine’s Day in Japan, however, is a decidedly less commercial affair.  It works as follows.  On February 14, girls are supposed to give a chocolate to any boy they like.  If the girl is particularly diligent she will make the chocolate herself.  ‘Like’ does not have to mean love in a grand Biblical sense.  Fond of or grateful towards is fine.  Then, on 14 March, which is known as ‘White Day’ (for reasons unknown), a boy must give a chocolate to any girl who gave him a chocolate on 14 February.  Hence, it’s all fair and no-one has to spend a lot of money.

On 13 February, I was thinking about how many chocolates I might receive and how I would react to receiving a certain number of chocolates.  How many chocolates would make me happy?  How many would make me feel under-appreciated?  This is what I concluded.

Zero Chocolates:  Distraught and inconsolable.

1-2 Chocolates:  Disappointed.

3-4 Chocolates:  Happy.

5+ Chocolates:  Very happy.

So what happened on 14 February?  Well, here is a rather smug photo of my inbox on Valentine’s Day. 

This translates as "13 chocolates.  Wow!"

                   

13 chocolates in total.  Not bad for my first Japanese Valentine’s Day, if I may say so myself!

Take care and thank you for reading.

Our Man in Japan.

Dolphin Hunting in Japan

Recently I watched the famous documentary, The Cove, which is about the mistreatment of dolphins, particularly the hunting of dolphins by fisherman in Taiji, Japan.

Taiji is a town in Wakayama Prefecture. I have never been to Wakayama, which is not surprising given it is quite secluded. Wakayama is famous for wilderness, mountains, beautiful coastlines and, due to The Cove, dolphin hunting. I was contemplating visiting Wakayama a few months ago to try dolphin meat, amongst other things. However, I was forewarned that it is not sold to Westerners as Japanese fish sellers now suspect that any Westerner wishing to purchase dolphin meat is a journalist.

The Cove is captivating and deals with some interesting issues, such as cruelty to animals, sustainability, differences of culture, public health and much more. For now, here are the main points of the documentary.

1. Having dolphins perform at amusement parks such as Sea World is cruel, bad for their health and should be stopped. However, it is unlikely to be stopped as a single performing dolphin can make millions of dollars for an amusement park each year.

2. The killing of dolphins by fisherman in Wakayama is cruel.

3. It is unnecessary to kill dolphins because there is little demand for dolphin meat in Japan. Dolphin meat is in fact sold under the guise of whale meat to unsuspecting Japanese consumers because there is no other way to sell it.

4. We should not kill dolphins because they are highly intelligent. 

5. Dolphin meat contains dangerously high levels of mercury due to the location of dolphins at the top of the food chain.

6. Japan only persists with whaling and dolphin hunting because it is the only trace of the Japanese Empire which still remains.

The government of Wakayama has responded to the points made in The Cove with a statement that is available on its website. Here is a link: http://www.pref.wakayama.lg.jp/prefg/071500/dolphin_fishery.html

 

I definitely think some of the above six points have merit. I agree with (1): training dolphins to jump through hoops and balance beach balls on their noses is no different to teaching a chimpanzee to ride a motorbike at a circus. Many people would disapprove of the latter. As pointed out in The Cove, a dolphin always appear to be “smiling” due to the natural shape of its mouth. Hence, we wrongly think that it enjoys performing at an amusement park.

I don’t particularly agree with (2). Killing dolphins is no crueller than killing most marine animals which we consume. The Cove certainly shows some gory footage, but I doubt it is any more confronting than what occurs in your average abattoir. 

I am unsure about (3). Eating dolphin is certainly rare in Japan. In Tokyo, I have never met anyone who has eaten it. A Japanese friend and myself tried to find a restaurant that sells dolphin meat in Tokyo. We found one that use to. The owner said that you cannot buy dolphin meat in Tokyo any more, not even in the enormous Tsukiji Fish Market. He attributed this to the impact of the The Cove. When I was in Okinawa, I was told by a couple of locals that dolphin can be eaten in some Okinawa towns, but it is still uncommon. The statement issued by the government of Wakayama says that eating dolphin has been popular there for centuries as a source of protein. There is little arable land in Wakayama due to the mountainous terrain. Hence, the sea is relied on heavily as a food source. 

I think the conspiracy about dolphin being sold disguised as whale meat is not convincingly proven in The Cove. I doubt that dolphins would be hunted in Wakayama unless there was demand for their meat. Funnily, the Japanese word for dolphin is iruka (海豚), which literally means “sea pig.” The fact it is called “pig” makes me think it has been consumed for some time. Still, I don't really know how much dolphin meat is consumed in Japan, but I would expect it to be very little. 

I am undecided about (4). I always wonder whether it is right to say that the life of an intelligent animal is more valuable than that of an unintelligent animal. I think we often conflate charisma with intelligence. Dolphins are charismatic. A pig, which is also intelligent, is not charismatic. For that reason, the poor old pig ends up on our dinner plate.

(5) certainly concerns me. However, the greater concern is high mercury levels in tuna. Tuna is eaten in monumental proportions in Japan despite the fact that it can be high in mercury. There are many people in Japan who eat tuna several times a week … for their entire life! 

(6) is an interesting point. I think there's some truth in it. Despite great opposition, Japan continues whaling even though almost no-one in Japan would care if whaling ended. Japanese whaling vessels go on excursions to distant parts of the globe where they clash with ships from other countries. Japan recruits poor island nations (most of which were former colonies) to support whaling at the International Whaling Commissions (IWC). Japan seems to adopt an "us versus the World" mentality at the IWC. It all sounds a little imperial to me.

To date, I haven’t eaten dolphin. I doubt I’ll get an opportunity to either. I have eaten whale on a few occasions. (If you would like to read about that, please see the post Getting One Back for Jonah: The Day I Ate Whale.) If you do get a chance to see The Cove, please do. It is quite interesting and will let you decide for yourself whether dolphin hunting is a great shame of Japan.

Thank you for reading and take care.

Our Man in Japan.

Drinking in Japan

Kimonos on Coming of Age Day.

Monday, 9 January was a public holiday here in Japan for Coming of Age Day:  a day which acknowledges all the Japanese people who reached the legal drinking age of 20 in the previous year.  If such a holiday existed in Australia, I would expect to see drunken youths strewn about most cities.  But like all Japanese holidays, Coming of Age Day is a very dignified affair.  All I saw were many sober 20-year-olds in their finest Kiminos walking to and from the coming of age ceremonies held at their local council offices.    

Coming of Age Day made me reflect upon drinking culture in Japan, and don’t be mistaken, there certainly is a culture.  I think the image of Japanese drinking culture, as it exists in the mind of foreigners, is more shaped by myth than fact.  In today’s post, I hope to set out some of the facts as I’ve observed them in the last 10 months.

Yes, Japanese love to drink!

The first thing to know about Japanese drinking culture is that the Japanese love to drink.  It’s an undeniable fact.  And when I say “drink,” I mean drink in considerable volume.  Alcohol is readily available in large amounts and at affordable prices.  Almost every restaurant and bar in Japan offers what is called a nomihōdai.  This is basically unlimited alcohol for a fixed period of time at a fixed fee.  A standard nomihōdai will be for about 2 hours, cost around USD30 and entitle you to unlimited beer, whiskey, wine, sake, umeshu and shōchu.  Nomihōdai is (unsurprisingly) very popular and a common way to have a drink with your friends or colleagues.  

Asahi ranges from "kids size" (135ml) to "adequate" (1000ml).

If the existence of nomihōdai doesn’t convince you that the Japanese love a drink, consider this:  alcohol is available from every 24-hour convenience store, beer is usually bought in 500ml cans (1000ml cans of Asahi are also available), vending machines sell alcohol, and you can drink in public places.  I remember once walking through a park on a Sunday afternoon and seeing an old lady seated on a park bench drinking a 500ml can of Kirin!

I think there are three reasons why Japanese drink so enthusiastically.  Firstly, they are naturally friendly and out-going.  Secondly, there is no religion in Japan that makes people feel guilty about drinking.  Thirdly, there is a lot of good alcohol in Japan.  And that leads me to an important matter:  Japanese alcohol.

Japanese booze

Japanese mainly drink three things:  (a) local beer, (b) local spirits and (c) local whiskey.  Please note the word “local.”  Foreign drinks are uncommon in Japan which is yet another manifestation of its insular nature.  

On the beer front, Asahi and Kirin are the two main players, but Sapporo, Yebisu and Orion are also popular.  The local spirits are sake (rice liquor), umeshu (plum liquor) and shōchu (distilled rice, sweet potato or barely).  

Japanese mainly, in fact almost exclusively, drink Suntory brand whiskey.  That’s the whiskey which Bill Murray’s character was advertising in Lost in Translation.  Strangely, whiskey highballs are very popular in Japan.  Just plain old scotch and soda is the order of the day.  You can even buy it by the can in convenience stores.

Responsible drinking

You would think the prevalence of drinking in Japan would lead to problems.  It probably would in most countries, but not here.  English ex-pats in Tokyo have remarked to me that if any bar in England offered nomihōdai, it would be drunk dry in an hour then smashed up.  In Australia, any such bar would be drunk dry and if not smashed up, it would certainly be the site of some violence.  In Japan, there are no such problems.  I haven’t witnessed a single fight in Japan nor been accosted by a drunk.  

A subway sign warning you not to be drunk on the platform.

I think there are a few reasons for the absence of alcohol-related problems in Japan.  Firstly, Japanese people are naturally courteous, even when drunk.  Secondly, drinking is often done only with your friends in a location isolated from strangers.  Many traditional Japanese drinking houses (called Izakayas) place each group of drinkers in their own closed booth.  This is different to western-style bars where a group of drunken strangers is thrown together in one room to punch each other up!  Thirdly, Japanese appear to all be happy drunks rather than aggressive drunks.

There are two other goods things about drinking in Japan.  Firstly, very few people in Tokyo drive, so drink-driving is almost non-existent.  Secondly, although drinking is popular, there is no pressure to drink.  This is a far cry from Australia where it is (sadly) acceptable to pressure people to drink and viewed as a sin to be a non-drinker.  That is not the case in Japan.  If you don’t want to drink, no-one will mind in the least.  If you order a water, you won’t be ridiculed for being a “wimp” but probably told that it is a good idea and joined by everyone else. 

So if you ever are in Japan and fell the need for a drink, do not hold back!  There are more bars and restaurants than you can imagine and endless goods drinks to be had.

Thank you for reading and take care.

Our Man in Japan.